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A white ceramic toilet bowl flushing, seen from above

Fixture work

Toilet Installation in Burlington

Setting a toilet seems easy, until the flange below is cracked or the floor is soft. Setting one properly is about what you cannot see once it is bolted down.

  • Common parts carried on the truck
  • New seals and supply lines fitted
  • Every joint checked for drips
  • Work area left clean
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When to replace a toilet

  • There is a crack in the china, even a fine one near the foot.
  • It clogs often because of a weak or early low-flow design.
  • The tank is sweating or leaking at the bolts.
  • You are renovating and want a different rough-in or height.
  • Parts for the old model are no longer available.

What's included

  • Basin wrench and supply lines
  • Wax rings and closet bolts
  • Cartridges and stems for common brands
  • Silicone and plumber’s putty

Our work on site, in order

Supply closed, tank and bowl sponged dry, we unbolt the old toilet. With it lifted away we scrape off the old wax and look closely at the flange: is it cracked, rusted, too low below the finished floor, or loose on the subfloor? A broken flange gets a repair ring or replacement. We check the floor around it for rot from slow leaks. Then the replacement is lowered onto a new seal, closet bolts tightened evenly so the porcelain does not crack, and shims where the floor is uneven. Then a braided connector and, where the old one is stiff, a quarter-turn shut-off go in. We flush it several times and check the base and tank for leaks.

Measure first: the distance from finished wall to the closet bolt centres is the rough-in, usually 12 inches. Picking up a bowl with the wrong rough-in is the classic mistake.

Tell-tale signs

  • A toilet that runs, rocks or leaks at the base
  • A faucet that drips with the handle off
  • A shower that turns scalding or cold mid-rinse
  • A sink trap that weeps into the cabinet

What makes the job bigger or smaller

The flange and the floor. A new tile floor laid over the old one can leave the flange too low, needing an extender. A cast iron flange in an older house may be corroded. A rotted subfloor must be repaired before a new toilet goes down. Wall-hung toilets and moving a toilet to a new location are bigger renovation jobs.

Job at a glance

Work
Toilet Installation
Trade
Fixture work
Where
Burlington and nearby
Book
(365) 464-5184

Burlington homes and this job

Many houses built in the 1980s and early 1990s still have early 6-litre toilets that clog easily. Modern models flush far better on the same water. Older homes may have 3.5-gallon toilets that use more water than necessary. The City of Burlington and Halton Region have offered rebates for efficient fixtures in the past; check current terms in our subsidy guide. If your toilet just runs or rocks, try toilet repair first.

Worth asking your plumber

  • What rough-in does my bathroom have?
  • Is the flange in good shape?
  • Will the old toilet be taken away?
  • Is a comfort-height model right for us?

How the visit runs

  1. 1

    Shut off the fixture stops or the main.

  2. 2

    Pull the worn part or the old fixture.

  3. 3

    Fit new parts, new seals and new supply lines.

  4. 4

    Run it, check every joint for drips, clean up.

Questions we hear

Wax or foam under the bowl? Either seals when set correctly. Foam or rubber seals can be helpful where the toilet might need resetting.

Can you install a toilet I bought?

Gladly, as long as its rough-in suits your floor.

How much time should I set aside? A simple exchange usually takes an hour or two.

Call now(365) 464-5184